Pablo Rivero’s Graciela in NYC

Source link : https://big-apple.news/2026/08/25/new-york-news/pablo-riveros-graciela-in-nyc/

It was a sizzling Argentina summer season — besides in Argentina, the place, being southerly hemisphered, it was a cool Argentina winter — when La Albiceleste shocked the world, assembly Spain to play for what may need been its second consecutive World Cup title. Then issues took a flip. Argentina succumbed to La Roja, and the tide of public opinion receded sharply. Accusations of soiled play and racist habits (by gamers and followers) led to choral condemnations on-line; the boys sealed their destiny with a Cup-capping brawl. Argentine inventory, comparable to it’s, dipped. “They’re jealous of us,” the nation’s president sniffed in response.

Into this fraught second comes a balm in beef fats, Graciela — grace — which took over the massive two-chambered house vacated by L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. It’s the primary U.S. restaurant from Pablo Rivero, the Argentine restaurateur whose Buenos Aires parrilla, Don Julio (a form of grill-forward steakhouse — a parrilla is a sort of grill), is a gastrotourist pilgrimage website, like a South American Luger’s, albeit one which favors a softer contact. I’d been shocked, earlier than the opening, to learn Rivero opine that the meals at his much-hyped U.S. debut wasn’t all that essential, really. “What’s essential is that we will make our visitors really feel higher,” he stated. “The delicacies is just a pretext.”

I — ¿cómo se cube? — rolled my eyes. However my visits to Graciela unrolled…

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Author : big-apple

Publish date : 2026-08-25 03:05:00

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